Day 1 Taiwan Travel: The Revelation

Before I say anything about my trip in Taiwan, I would like to share a little about my body. I consider myself to be fit. For the past year I run 100km per week and spends 5 hours of gym after a long active day in hospital, plus cooking and studying. I have tried this much of activity for only 500kcalories of fuel a day (about 1 big Mars bar worth).Am I a gym nutter? Nope, I get to paid to be fit from Indonesia since I'm a listed no. 2 nationally for a sport I love (it's a secret ;P). So I have no problem to walk 12 hours straight and, though I hate summer, I can withstand that too.

Being an Indonesian, I've had Malaria, Dengue Fever, Thypoid Fever, atypical pneumonia, untreated Appendicitis and all things Westerners dreaded. I cured myself using textbooks, buying my own lab/x-ray test, getting my own medicine and use homemade sport's water & paracetamol to maintain homeostasis. I am a walking antiviral/antibacterial. I have no problem being severely sick and I know my limits. So my 5 days of Taiwan is not recommended to be copied to its exact timing, especially if you just came out of ICU yesterday.

I never been to Taiwan. The info I've received from my Taiwanese buds are way to westernised and not authentic enough. I didn't do much research though. My only preparation of Taiwan was buying a plane ticket and booking a good-reviewed hotel. In the middle of my transit, I bought a lonely planet book and when I arrived to the airport on Saturday afternoon; I exchanged a few hundreds NZ dollars and asked for a tourist map. Of course I've walked 50% more than I needed because the map sucks and for other reasons I will point out to you. For food pointers, just follow my '100% recommended' next to the photos.

My personal travel essentials:
1. Electric Toothbrush
2. Noise-cancelling Earphone with Airplane plug
3. Hungry heart?

Day 1
Wellington-Auckland
Last bite of NZ beef in Burger Fuel and no more food until 20 hours later in Taiwan. Remember my 6 days in Melbourne? I craved for NZ beef on the 3rd day, badly!
Watch out when you are applying for visa to Taiwan, read the dates carefully. I've indicated my travel dates and applied for the visa 3 months ago, only to find that I've got visa that's been expired 3 days earlier. Another sad thing was that Wellington was snowing for the first time in 40 years or so, and I missed it...
I saw a lot of my classmates on the plane and shared a plane to Auckland with Chamaya, (she was featured here).

Auckland-Singapore
And then I saw Lindsay, another classmate of mine, heading to Dublin on the same flight transit to Singapore. I love the convenience of Changi Airport. It's so lovely once you're on the transit area, the check-in counters people are assholes on my past experiences. I bought a bigger and faster memory card for Canon Powershot S95 (my favourite point-shoot dig cam). Food sucks in Changi and Singaporeans... don't get me started there.... There's just so many offended Indonesians passing each day, by that Airport itself, let alone the whole country. The culture is way to harsh for the gentle, reserved and friendly Indonesians.

I believe that each culture has its norm. If Singaporeans' manner is way out of line for my taste, I always remind myself,' The wiser's the forgiver'. Actually, I was about 11 when I had a big test of moral and ethics. My dad and I were heading back to Indonesia after visiting one of my Godfather in Mauritius. Whilst sitting on a random sit in Changi, I felt a lump on my bump. It was a huge lump of 100US dollar bills! Easily more than 10,000 and my dad wasn't watching as he was too distracted with munching on edmame beans. I certainly know what that money can buy for me... playstation, latest computer, a TV in my room, a trip to Bali, etc. Then, I realised that I just had the best time of my life in Mauritius. What gave me the right to wreck another's journey? I have a dad who's financially able. I have ownership worth more than 50-80% boys of my age in the rest of the world. That lump of cash was a blessing from the devil perhaps? So I returned it to the information centre and the gal asked for my passport number and name, I didn't get the money back nor any thanks, but I felt so much better about life.

Singapore-Taipei
I paid a little extra for better food, entertainment and comfort with Singapore Airline on all trips. I've watched 6 movies on the way, my favourite is a Singaporean movie called '15'. Truly truly moving cinematic treat about real badass 15 year old Singaporean boys with all the feminine culture and psychological dilemma compacted, definitely a must-watch for psychologist! Probably in my top 50 of all time, trust me I've watched too many movies in my life.
And is it just me, or is it that being in plane makes me wanna drink ginger ale? Happens all the time! Even when I had been upgraded to First class for posing as a doctor ;P

I didn't eat much on the plane though, my trip to Taipei is 99% about food.

Taipei
My initial impression of Taipei is 80% Seoul and 20% Jakarta. From the cleanliness and style of the airport ditto to that of Seoul, there are other quirk bits of pieces that resembles Jakarta, especially the trip to city from the airport. I was getting positive vibes, with the good money power and all (it's about 25 Taiwan dollars for 1 NZ or 30 for 1 US).

I headed to town centre where I checked-in to my room. A little tip on how to save cash without sweating over your suitcases, take a bus from airport to town; then pick a good taxi from bus station to your accomodation. I stayed in Taipei garden Hotel, highly recommended, ticks all the boxes in my list.

I've dropped my suitcase and asked for the nearest MRT station. Consulted to my lonely planet book on the night time itinerary, I've picked Shilin Night Market. Before heading there, you will need to buy one of this card in the MRT station.

Just press 'English' button on the most logical machine in the Subway station. Then follow your brain and the instruction. The card is, I repeat, it's super essential. It'll save you time and money. I've passed a lot of 5 hour-wait tourist line just by purchasing this card (of course you need upload money in to the card).

So Shilin...
If there's anything worth experiencing in Taiwan, especially Taipei, it would be the Night Market. It's what Taiwan's urban life's all about. It's lively. It's delicious. It's lovely. It's vivacious.
If you're pressed for time, you just need to visit one market, not Shilin in particular. I will posts about other markets later and take your pick after.
And Shilin's just the King of all market.

It's so simple to get around Taipei. To head for Shilin, just get off Jiantan Station... and you're there.

Boy! The night was warm! I can't imagine how hot it'd be during the day time (I'm a winter lover...;P)
You see when I travel for a holiday, I become lost in time. I solely keep up with either the date or the day, usually not both... well not until I have a nudge that I may need to leave and catch the next plane. Otherwise, my usual holiday's about embracing the moment and getting lost in time. Of course, it's not fool-proof. I chose to come to Shilin Market because I thought it was Sunday and people need to go to work the next day. So late night visit may be a good idea to avoid the overcrowded scene.

Damn! It's actually Saturday night! Arrrghhh so packed!

First foodsight in Taiwan, Chicken's feet glazed with Taiwanese Sauce. Not bad!

Before you know it, I was stuck (well a kinda curious) in a line for food that I had yet to find out.

It was a long wait, if you have a look at the whole foodstall street. You kinda wonder, how to get around this. People people people everywhere.
Taking pictures whilst waiting helps to trace my bearing around the place, in case I get lost, which I didn't, but useful to do if you're paranoid.

Wow! Grills! I love grilled stuff... seems like pork... and stuff?

I was glad to wait on this line. I bought 1 stick since I still want to taste every single thing on this market.

It's not bad, I have to say that meat in NZ taste better and more tender, but this piece of grilled pork belly stuffed with young leeks/spring onion is a great manly starter.

OK, this picture of taken-but-pretty-smile Taiwanese gal reminds me that I should comment about the gals here. When I arrived in Taipei downtown, I realised that all the gals here are pretty. Then I realised, most are make-up pretty. Some just do their make up the wrong way, from 'a little bit more' to 'just right' to 'a tiny too much' to 'where's your face!'
Back to food...

This is a decent snack of dried meat in Taiwanese sauce, then roasted/grilled slowly to crisp.
A little on the pricey side tho.
Textured like a nachos but taste a bit like dried sausage Chinese style

I heard a soft buzz that in Taiwan, oyster's like a candy. You can eat them in masses for prices of nothing. So I started with this:

"One of No. 1 please..."
"Yes, ee (1) that one ee (1)..." (See how owsom's my Taiwanese ordering skills?!)
Grilled oyster with your chosen seasonings on a stick.

Damn f$cking tasty! (100% recommended)

In East Asian countries, deep fried things are quite a common treat. However, they don't eat the deep fried stuff in masses and frequency as the Westerners. This is deep fried octopus/squid, very tender and well-done. Not a surprise but fundamental to those who need to know how to cook octopus.

In the market, you get to see so many stalls with, presumably, actress/actor's photos eating the food they sell. Like this one. Seems to be ...'everyone's favourite'? Who's this everyone?

The idea of lettuce and seafood did not appeal much to the prospect of me surviving this market without food poisoning. So I give that a miss (not on the first night).

So I think I found what the Malaysian called, 'Kompia'.

Seems to be done right. That's why Arthur love this... It's like a child's food, 'easy to like'.

Very tasty bite of carb to balance out all the grilled protein. 100% recommended

Let me tell you why I chose Taiwan out of centres in the world.
When I was little, my dad used to bring us to eat Taiwanese Spicy Beef noodle every month or so. I love love love that noodle. The place was the only Taiwanese place in Jakarta. It closed down a few years later...Why? Maybe because back then Indonesians were to reserved and stupid not to try that awesome bowl of noodle. I was so sad that I couldn't eat Taiwan noodle anymore. I promised myself at that time, that I will visit Taiwan and eat lots of beef noodle. F&*K Yeah!

In general, there are 2 types: spicy or not. Then you can choose the one with stewed beef or with everything including offal. It's not a difficult choice for me... I love offals.

I tried this place in Shilin, it was alrite...
They try to rip me off or thought I was a Jap who loves alcohol with everything.

Taiwan's only beer? It's not bad. Crisp, mild and smooth; definitely caters to Asian drinkers. They didn't even check if I were 16 or not?!

Here's another similar thing between Taiwan and Korea, it's pickling. They do it differently in Taiwan. And just like Kimchi, it's an acquired taste.

You pick anything you want to add to your pickle salad... brocolli, tofu, beansprout... duck's tongue, pork's blood dumpling, foetus egg...(I wonder which crunch is which...? Yum!)

OK, the next tip I heard in the past is to try the delicious ones, follow the crowd/queue. If you wanna try the authentic/unique ones, follow your nose.

It's Deep-Fried Stinky Tofu! With organic seasonings! (That guy's sweat!) Yay!

I love it. (100% recommended)
Actually we do have some thing more potent in Indonesia, more smelly and difficult to digest for the faint hearted... called 'oncom'. Process of making them is pretty similar for both; just let a tofu rot (in a controlled manner).

There are many ways Taiwanese serves their stinky tofu; deep-fried, grilled, boiled, with pickles, with sweet n sour sauce, etc. I like the texture of this deep-fried tofu that I couldn't find anywhere else in Taipei. It's a slightly more unique deep-fried stinky tofu to a conventional one. Served with pickles, sweet soy and chili sauce... in a bag... double bag! Hahaha.

So here's the queuing part:

There are many variation of skin texture to, what I think is, Xiao long bao (Pork dumpling) in Taiwan. Of course many people love it! I didn't follow up on this queue. I'm not here for something originated from Shanghai. This bao's texture is more like a cross between xiao long bao and BBQ pork bun, it's more morish.

I think the cooking show attracts the crowds too. A recipe to success!

So much food! So thirsty!

Head to where you can see WOW Frog eggs.

WOW! They taste so refreshing and soothing!(100% recommended)
Not sure about the relation to the 'frog', but they taste like jelly with sweet lime and honey drink.

Taiwanese dessert has a simple base of crushed ice and sweetener like condensed milk/syrup, but what's on top of the dessert is like an exotic sweet love making. They've got mochi based stuff, sago based stuff, mung bean based stuff, all sorts of fruits that makes your dessert penis stiff.

Back for Round 2!
Like in Korea, where fried-chicken business is political, the Taiwanese does have its edge too!
They like it boneless and LARGE!

Let me give you a little tutorial on how to make 'em...

Pick a corner in the street.
Marinade your chicken with 'unknown' powder in open air and hot warm night.
Dust them with chosen flour.

Deep-friggin-fry them to dead and sterile.

Char grill them to concentrate the taste and let the fat drip.

I don't think they're truly boneless and huge... 'cos I see a lot of foodie-huge-boners. ;P

This is a brilliant inspiration to my future cooking ideas: char-grill sugar cane.

The lingering depth of sweet carameley aroma stopped my soul and camera.

Ah Crabs! My favourite seafood (my least favourite patient's condition).
Cooked gently in Shiitake mushroom, chicken stock and sticky rice. Ricey comfort!

OK all that Xiao long bao buns I passed just makes me want to have one.
There are 2 types: pork and cabbage. Definite pork is (100% recommended).

OK, let me double dose you with the importants of pickle salad for the usual-Taiwanese-Joe.

Even that cut on the girl's face... which may be from the chicken feet's nail or a duck's beak... did not put her off for more and more salad! That's dedication there! Go girl!

I'm seeing lots of UFOs, Unidentified Foodilicious Object.

Meh! Just mix it all in a bowl and enjoy the crunch, crunch, crunch! (100% recommended)

If you don't like them in as a salad, pick one from the top and they'll deep fry them for you.

Nothing's gonna taste bad, deep-fried!

Another thing to deep fry, dough and egg... mixed with perfection!

It's like a baker's multiple orgasm! I know other places in Taipei where they make better ones tho... (it's like saying... I know where to find a better prostitute huh?)

Whatever you do in Shilin, stay off the conventional restaurants!
From looking, I am seeing far too many disappointed curious tasters from outside.
This kind of restaurant gives risotto a bad rep. I freakin hate them!!!
Try my authentic risotto if you wanna make one.

In East Asia, tomatoes are fruit. Yup! Served with thick and glossy sugar syrup, better than apple toffee.

I'm not that typical Asian who must have fruits at the end of their meal. I prefer them before a meal. Either or, do try the peaches and other exotic stuff here. They're refreshing.

My no. 1 pick of Shilin's Night Market! (200% recommended)
Deep fried dough with light caramelised-sugar coating. Just the perfect texture, like a perfect baguette or ciabatta. Airy but has a body to shine. I love my last bite!

There are other stuff you can do in Shilin. Like clothes shopping or trying to shoot a balloon to impress your dates, but I'm just not up to that kinda thing on my first night.

Train system in Taipei is very advanced and convenient! Somewhat a little more advanced that Seoul but more crowded and lively. (Seoul's train is like a funeral... quiet and solemn)

That concludes my first 5 hours in Taipei. It was an epic gastrorgasm!
I definitely bought the right ticket! (just may be a touch too warm for the season)
For more and more food adventure around Taipei, stay in tune for my day 2,3,4,5,6!