Saturday, August 27, 2011

Day 2 Taiwan Travel: Sunburn & Diarrhoea


Let begin my late start holiday/morning-ish to Taipei 101 Tower. I had a presumption that the tower is just that, a tower.

On the bottom of the tower, there's a flash mall with all the top expensive boutique stuff that most 'real' people wouldn't shop in to. I was pleased by the upper architecture of the mall. It's quite modern yet classically resembling Milan.

On top of that, they charge quite a lot for going up; about 15 US dollars.

Going up, though, was an unique experience. It was so fast! Faster than most girls run on a boxing day sale. I am guessing somewhat this won't be safe for a diver (beware Divers to Taiwan! Do this 1st then dive, not the opposite).

Right on top, it was true to my presumption that it was just a tower. The fact that it was Sunday makes it even less impressive, because the loud Chinese/Taiwanese-whisperers around (keep it down guys). I guess when you find a quiet spot and sit down to savour the miniscular feast for your eyes, you've get the find more appreciation of your travel.

I recommend that you visit Taipei 101 early in your venture and bring in a map because it'd serve you nicely as a bearing of where you want to go and what you want to do... or you can do the exact opposite, where were you and what you did. Also if you're a bit of a Ted Mosby (Architect), you may be inspired with a tower or two underneath you.

Right inside is located the infamous balancing spherical structure of Taipei 101. I felt a soulless experience on pondering the ball, even in various different angles and levels. Hey, it seems to serve the purpose though.

There are also many touristey paraphernalias on offer at ridiculous price and of doubtful tradition, authenticity and origins. I say skip that bit.

I mean some of the stuffs are beautiful but not Taiwan-beautiful.

After the climb, I was reluctant to do my next thing in Taipei 101: 'Foodcourting'; because of the Westernised ambiance around the place. So I got back to the main train station and started off that way. 'Foodcourting' is recommended in the Lonely planet book and they mentioned a few place. I chose the Shin Kong tower.

There were a lot of traditional Taiwanese stuff on offer, but I thought if I were in food court I should really order the stuff that other people eat. So I did.

A choice well-resented bitterly. It tasted like a newly wedded career-driven young wife on the bed and in the kitchen... well maybe more towards the kitchen; Confused, 'not right', messy, unefficient, you get the gist...
In fact, I say skip the whole food court experience all together if you were in Taiwan. Just get out of that place and roam around the streets, look for random run-down establishments that are just too well-packed for dunch/brunch.
Ow just for the note, if the food taste bad, I throw it out. Yes, indeed!
I think the problem in the world now is hunger AND obesity. So don't lecture me on not finishing my food.

Of course, it's not Taiwan if you don't have 'bubble tea'. For those of you, food newbie, 'bubble tea' is a Taiwanese invention of combining milk, black tea, sugar and sago pearls in a glass. If cheap kegs of piss is what your teens in to, Taiwanese tends to swing this way.
I think this place, which is in the vicinity of Shin Kong Tower, is the best bubble tea I had. The tip from everyone is to stick to the 'commercialised' looking store. All and all I thought, they all taste pretty the same. I've got to say though, all the tea tasted like a real tea in Taiwan, as oppose to powdered tea elsewhere in the world.

Keep heading the back direction of Shin Kong, you'd find a little charming Maritime Museum nestled in like a piece of Italian official ground. I didn't come in, I was just looking for a good place to suck out my 'bubbles'.

There were a few picks on the park. But it was too hot to be outdoors, bubble walk it was.

I am very pleased to see the wildlife roaming around the urban high-tech Taipei everywhere. In Jakarta, we never see a bird anymore since the early 1990's. In Taipei, I saw numerous white doves, butterflies and this:

A little roam later, I found the crab soup that I was too full to try last nite.

The whole place is quite packed. I felt a good vibe in this establisment, especially when you see old people; their tastebuds are like kids.

But... my 'ee no. 1 of ee' trick would not work here. Help???

OK most people in Taiwan thought I was Japanese or something... because of my unshaven face? my style? Anyway, so when asking for help to the waitress, I seem to get lots of Japanese disappointments or the most expensive items. The moral of the story is when asking for menu help, make sure that you get one item in first 5-7 rows.

I am loving the condiments and artilleries available on Taiwanese tables. Chilies!... and etc.
Tissues are available everywhere for free, unlike the stingy Singaporeans.

This restaurant is located near to the Taipei Main train station. It was a great treat, even though I then realised it's a vegetarian restaurant, which made me wanna be a vegetarian again.
And another great way to order is to snoop around diner's table and point the ones people/you like.

The vegetarian restaurant is located next to a lotto shop. Lotto shops are everywhere in Taiwan. I went to one and demanded for the winning ticket... I didn't win a penny but made a few friends.

Here are two important landmarks to be familiar with. It's the main bus station where you'd catch the bus anywhere in Taipei, Airport and Taiwan.

The one on top is the main train station to get anywhere in Taiwan. It's located in front of Shin Kong Tower and Computer Nova place, which enlightened me that electronics are damn cheap and latest in tech in Taiwan, not in Computer Nova particularly. Don't be fooled that electronics are cheap in South Korea or Japan, they're not.

Right underneath main train station, there is a little mall with shops to hinder a few minutes of your travel; like this panda place that specialise in panda things, except the real one.

I know who'd love to be here and smile droolingly to be embraced in all things panda *wink.
I think girls who likes pandas are a bit like 'oreo' gals. Just personal experiences...

The underground mall is called the K underground mall. And I think this is the best place to stop whilst you're there. It's a little shop that serves the aroma. It's an amazing concept.

You've got lots to choose from and they have them on samples, you just open the box drawers and smell the little bottle within.

They cater for all sorts of clients...
From a racist mafia- the black russian
A true scots at heart- the haddock
to the emo/goth/Edward Cullen's(Twilight) fans- the funeral home
The New Zealand aroma was no where near the real stuff sadly...

When you decide which aroma you like, you can buy the 'expensive' eau de toilette/perfume for that smell. I personally love the cucumber and the strawberry ice cream. At 40US dollars for a small pot, I could only afford one. I bought the strawberry one in case I'd meet someone special on my journey that I love to lick all nite, without the calorie load. I certainly love the attention to detail on the packaging, mimicking a book.

"Where are you from?"
"Where do you think I'm from?"
"I think you dress up like a Hong Kong men but you look different."
"Not HK, how different?"
"Like a Japanese but nice face like Korean."
"Yeah... I'm Indonesian and a little Korean. Thanks though...bla bla bla"
The shopkeeper got pretty close to identifying my origins. She was friend... somewhat suggestive but unsure on that. I think she may be correct that I don't use make-up like Korean men and I love earthy inspired clean fashion (not in a hippie way). I think it's harder to pull off a natural look than those tiny, pale, make-up drenched and girl's handbag loving urban Korean men.

Now before I mention further about Keelung's night market. I am only showing things that are sparticular to Keelung here. On top of the stuff I posted here, all the night markets in Taiwan are similar. So you can find most food in Shilin, just as you would here.

As I said earlier, it's better to visit Taipei 101 Tower earlier on your trip because in the queue you'd be exposed these cute animations of iconic Taiwanese places... like Keelung!

Heading to Keelung is pretty damn easy. It's about 40 minutes and 10 dollars train ride North-east of Taipei. It's a different train line to the main inner Taipei MRT subway, but you'd use the same 'easy card'. Make sure you get some hydration before you swipe the ticket, once you're in the train platform, nothing is sold because you can't eat or drink in the train. I love the selections of unsweetened green tea available in Taiwan. In fact, it's pretty difficult to choose a good sweetened ones.

Keelung gave me an initial impression that it's a port-city and it's about seafood.

I consulted to my 'Lonely Planet' that showed a direction of Siandong cave, which was written 'just 500m' out side of the map shown in the book.

Lets just say that 500 metres is more like 5 km of doubts in a sunburning day. I ponder upon the existence of my life, soul and the point of my travel. I thank God that I had my sunnies and the chilled green tea I bought earlier.
I think the direction for 'the monument of the martyr's' are for a pretty clear reason.

...because the cave was tiny. Not worth the sweats.
Another name for the cave was Buddha's hand cave, supposedly the guy knicked a little cave on a tiny hill, but everything inside was deliberately man made and a little amateurish.
If you want head there, you might need a taxi. It'd cost about 3 dollars from Keelung's train station. So much cheaper than brewing a melanoma or having doubts about life.

On the north east of the train station and passed the city centre, you should climb up the Zhongzheng park towards the Guayin statue. You'd find the real beauty of Keelung. The temple, on top, is hosting a special August festival that each different local clan rotate annually.

Shamefully, the Guayin statue is tarnished bad time. Every time I see a sight like this, I always remember the story in the bible when Jesus went psycho, strucking out the stores with whip and wooden blocks, "This is the house of my father! Piss off!" (not reported to the exact word)
I mean, it's pretty understandable that you want a nice historical place to be solemn and peaceful so you can find a eureka perspective for your soul. It's hard to concentrate in the place with lots of dogs barking, kids screaming and merry-go-round rounding?

I didn't go psycho like Jesus. Well I'm not Buddhist, so... not yet.

I still pray to God every time I come these places though. I think all God's the same.

Apparently the Guayin statue is akin to a lighthouse. Hmm... Asian and their money saving schemes!

Ding!

There are various ways to head up and down. I chose to get down the road less travelled to immerse my thirst for the everyday Joe life.

When you head down this alley, it's application or a gamble for either an experience about the urban village life or getting mugged.

I didn't get lost and still have my camera. Road well-chosen.

I think Keelung's people are simple-minded, or is it just a coincidence that they need to remind themselves that they are in 'Keelung' over and over and over again, all over Keelung? Pride over-indulgence?

The night charm's blanketing over the blue sky. And it's Night Market time!
If you hate the hustle and bustle of Shilin, Keelung's a little cousin that seems to be more civilised and friendly.

There were kids coming back from schools, trying to waste away their pocket money just like way many generations repetitively do... buying a fish/turtle.

Rule no. 1 in Asia. Never eat sushi outdoors like this. It's a recipe for disaster...
If you think eating chilies with street food reminds you of David Bowie's song 'Ring of Fire' around about the time you move do your toilet thing, then outdoor sushi is that exact song played live, loud and followed by a never ending encore!
I think the combination of rice and raw seafood are vulnerable to bacterial proliferation, since I am not condoning any practises of outdoor sashimi (exclusively raw seafood) eating.

I think the crab statue speaks for itself that I am in a bit of a heaven. I didn't get to try the crab soup yet, but I did try the crab rice in Shilin overnight.

Besides the coriander that I didn't touch, I love this soup. The broth is meaty and mushroom based. The slurp is filled with bamboo shoot bite, crab tenderness, mungbean glass noodle and stuff of heavens. (100% recommended)

Across the stall, there's a sesame/red bean filled glutinous rice ball in warm gingery syrup soup. It's pretty hard to resist but I knew I can make that at home, so moved on I did.

Taiwanese salads are pretty unique everywhere. The combination and contents are bound to the chef's choice. It's lovely to be healthy in Taiwan.

The point of Keelung Night Market is seafood.

Seafood.

Seafood,

and more seafood.

and boiled fresh crabs with secret sprinkles and zingy sauce.
(100% recommended)

Pork hock's soup/stew is always a hit in every night market in Taiwan. I understand why: it's simple, stickilious bowl of homey love. (100% recommended).

Blood, offals and tofu on a stick... grilled... fried... boiled... you name them.

I had a bowl of boiled offal in a ginger pork consomme. (100% recommended)

Curry chow mien tasted like ones in Wellington. A total face-losing experience for the cook's family. It's too amateurish.

Dumplings in Taiwan's street are the same in content, pork, they're just mainly different in the wrapper/presentation.

Deep fried pastry, soaked in syrup, rolled in ground sesame/peanuts... it's aaaallrriiite....

OK let me give you a little tutorial on how to make my best bite in Keelung, Oyster's omellete.

You take a sweaty guy.

Add whole chomp full of fresh oysters to the grill.

Duck eggs, Sago/tapioca batter, chinese greens and leeks/chives...

Wait and spin.

Look around... ask for the other guy to get you a bowl of that blood cube soup whilst you're waiting.

Ta dah! Served with a little sweet soy and sour & spicy sauce.
There's a crisp part, a crunch part, a tender goeey part... and a part where I smiled with the time pausing. (200% recommended)

During summer, the afternoon seems to be rainy. No problemo, the pitchers are highly efficient.
I think it's pretty crucial not to travel with an umbrella, just buy it if you need one. 99.99% case, you don't.

By day 2, I have derived that there are TEMPLES everywhere. It's like churches in Rome.

I loved Keelung.
Shoppings for clothes are great too, since it's a port-city,where quarantine stuff are done.
Seafoods are not too shabby for a world's standard.
Shilin may present their feast more enticingly like a full-frontal nudity, but once you've been married I think a little skin shows more meaning and sexiness, and that's Keelung.
I finished off the night with a little bubble tea. Like I mentioned in my previous post, I love the quality of real tea used for the Bubble tea all over Taiwan.

If you ever get to Taipei and wanted to buy a tea but you have no clue, come right over to 'Ten Shang's Tea Co.' (No 156, Jilin Road, phone 02-25426542) and asked for a gal named Megan Chang. Why?

I came off the Shuanglian station in Taipei's MRT and headed east to find this tea place that's written in Lonely Planet. It was a task to figure out the numbering of the streets. I had to walk about 10 km to find the exact place. It was a saunating nite and when I found the place, I realised that I've passed the shop 5 times. There's no obvious English signage on the place.

I entered,"Uhmm... do you speak English?"
"Yes come right in! Have a seat!"
And that's how Megan and I started the teacher and happy pupil nite.

Megan's a young lady who's a lovely attender of National Palace museum and her dad owns the shop. They have been on tea business for many generations. I was soooo glad that she opened my eyes to Taiwanese tea, and with a little tailoring to my favourite -the green tea. She guided me through the way of green Oolong tea. Taiwan's famous for Oolong (non-green) tea, by the way.
I tell you what the first sip of warm tea had a 'Yin' power so great, my sweaty drenched chest started to feel inner coolness in matters of seconds.
With a great tea comes a great responsibility?

Tea is a complex art and culture. It is the exact spit image to wine.
A great tea is also like a great wine. Grown, hand-picked and processed with love, soul and generations of traditions.

Megan gave 2-hour interractive and ultimate tea experience for no cost. If she was a little younger, I'd somewhat embark on a romantic idea. But I think, I don't want to start off my journey with one foot strung to the ground.
I can't share everything she told me in this post. I guess I just share her top three most important thing about tea making: the tea, the temperature and the time. There is no exact universal recipe for all three, but when they meet, perfection grows with the slow-motion set of your smile. For example, Daryuling green tea goes well with 90-100 celcius water that needs to be brewed using, washing out on the first pour, 30 seconds brew on the first brew, 40s on 2nd and 50s on the 3rd... maximum of 4 brews for optimal experience. And that's just one tea.

Let me give you a little pricing on Taiwan green Oolong tea and its relation...
25% fermentation Mt Ali 2010 (1500m altitude) 20US/150gram
Tastes a bit like conventional Japanese matcha, very creamy and very sweet... goes well with strawberry shortcake and cream.
25% fermentation Sanlinshi 2010 (2000m) 30US/150g
very green and humid, goes with a simple stirfried chinese greens.
25% fermentation Daryuling 2010 (2600m) 80US/150g
If you had an East-asian kid experience, you may recollect the experience of melon, apple, lime candies. This is similar to that. The tea is Megan's dad's favourite (he came and joint us during the tea time, he offered me this expensive tea because he thought I was a nice guy from NZ. ;P). A perfectly brewed Daryuling gives out progressive and also intermittent various after taste so sweet and light, it's like cucumber and honey dew jelly. 'Cheerful' is my perfect description of this tea, similar to that of a perfect semi-sweet Otago Riesling 2009.

I bought the Mt Ali (on left) and Daryuling (right). 150gram will yield about 2-4 litres of perfect tea. Very expensive but think of it like wine.

After all that tea, I thought I had a little room for my daily Taiwanese beef noodle soup. It was late night and I saw this place next to the Shuanglian station. The noodle's broth wasn't bad, but the rest was.

Now before I end this post, can you identify what's wrong with these 3 gals? Fashion wise.

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The two gals on the left wore a nerdy glasses without the lens!
Yes! It's like Korean men wearing women's handbag, Taiwanese girls love to their frameless 2010 hipster lensless glasses (Both western origin phenomena that's 'lost in translation')...
(The girl on the right just spreads her legs to wide. ;P)
I mean why?! Why this fashion faux-pas?
Why not with lenses?
Are they too poor or too stupid to be know what's chic?
Are they trying hard to be Taylor Swift?!?!

?

Shut up!!!!
Taylor Swift's awesome OK!!!
;P

Most of us would know the ending of a brilliant poem by Robert Frost, I'd like to add to that for Day 2 of my travel.
"...Two roads diverged in a wood,
and I,
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
And I,
I think today that road is about Melanoma and Salmonella."
(Damn Sun's roasting my skin to crispy brown... Too much food, shocked my internal system!)

P.S. Super huge 'Thank you' to Megan Chang at Ten Shang's Tea Co.

19 comments:

  1. I actually thought you were a Japanese( if you didn't mention you weren't earlier)... wait a sec, the Chinese written menu, how did you place order ya? Interesting to imagine your eyes popped out whn u saw it, lol!

    Awesome choice of street food in Kee Lung, love Kung Fun tea too(the Chinese Tea Art). Oh dear, hope you feel better by now, please take care and stay well!

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  2. I actually really enjoyed reading this post, until you scared the hell out of me with the last pic! Totally didn't expect that coming. LOL ! It makes me wanna go to Taiwan to taste all the food! Keep them coming.

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  3. Dearest sweet Pierre, loving this post and thanks so much for taking us along with you! My favorite ~ that scent library! Me want to go! teehee
    So sorry to hear about your Diarrhoea thinggie...hope you feel better already! :D Nerdy glasses are awesome with lenses of coz. Have a lovely merry happy and safe adventures! Love to you!

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  4. OMG! I totally agree with Edi on his comment about your last pic! Hahaha! Did you buy that black framed lensless glasses on deliberate to go well with your last 2nd pic!? :P Ok, I'd enough of my laughing on your entertaining pic and tks for that! ;)

    Taiwan is really a food paradise with so many different kinda 'looks so yummy' UFOs! ;D
    Here, I love the crab soup and that plate of oyster omelete! Cubed blood soup! I used to taste it when young but not anymore bcoz they can't be sold here due to hygiene issues. ;(
    Sigh... another shameful act...

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  5. Ohhhhhhhhhh, Pierre,
    where does one even begin? This was soooooooo fabulous, so exciting, so hilareous. I adore your writing flow, your upbeat language.
    ..."I didn't get lost and still have my camera. Road well-chosen.."
    I must say, I feel your readers get lost in your glorious blog-posts.
    PS. keep the glasses. you look utterly hit & geeky. Girls like that!
    And as far as the "Road Well-Chosen."
    You are on that road, dude.
    Looooooooooooved this.
    Loooove the photo.
    Classic. x

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  6. Great entry Pierre! Love looking at all the pictures especially the seafood ones. I hope you have a great trip and continue to eat well :)

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  7. Sooo many food especially the one you mention "Oyster omelet", my antenna is up (if I were to have one). This is my grandma's favorite and often cook at my home. I am going to blog this recipe later in my blog.

    I hope you have a great trip, continue to eat well and be safe on the road.

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  8. Geez, you should be a tour guide in case the surgeon thing doesn't work out, Pierre. This post is so extensive and amazing in it's vibrancy and details! I especially love the idea of the Aroma shop (who would buy the Funeral Home scent, though?) and that tea that makes you sweat within seconds (I thought this would be good to serve to your boss just before your performance appraisal...haha).

    The last time I went to Taiwan was on a convention many years ago, and I made friends with this speaker from HK. When I was on a trip to HK a few years later, he picked me up took in a Bentley (with personalized plates) and took me out to lunch with the most amazing view of the harbor. So you never know who you're going to meet in Taiwan!

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  9. Such a long post that by the end of it, I can't remember what comment I would want to make.
    1. Yes, same thing in Singapore. Avoid those food courts elsewhere too...like in KL or Singapore - the pseudo-authentic stuff maybe ok, affordable...but they're nothing like the real thing. Head on to the back lanes and alley ways - the old school coffee shops and roadside hawkers.

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  10. 2. You call that an oyster omelette? Hmmmm...I think you should make a trip to Penang but Singapore has nice ones too - justbe wary when travelling - I ended up with the runs too after eating at a clinically-clean touristy hawker centre in Singapore.

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  11. 3 Bubble tea? I thought there's a ban on that somewhere - specifically bubble tea from Taiwan...

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  12. Your second post does not disappoint. The bubble tea sounds delicious. I would love to spend a leisurely day shopping at the malls you visited. Thanks again for a great tour and travel safely. Susan

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  13. Awesome post! Thanks for introducing that unique aroma shop, it's truly amazing! I would want to that shop too..I love looking at the wide variety of cold drinks in the grocery/provision store. I've not been to Taiwan but it reminds me of Hong Kong. I always have a hard time choosing, but I do love the unsweetened green tea too, a fantastic pick me up drink!

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  14. Err... Why would someone smell like a funeral house?! That's just weird. And what does New Zealand smell like?
    I'm actually not a fan of lifts at tall buildings. I got motion sickness on the top of empire state building. How silly.
    I'd be completely lost with that menu written in Chinese. I also don't get that trend with lens-less glasses.
    Another great travel post Pierre!

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  15. Are you not a fan of coriander?

    When I was holidaying in Japan last year, most people thought I was Japanese but I'm Chinese/Vietnamese. My friends told me that people mistook me for being Japanese because I am stylish. Maybe you accentuate Japanese stylings?

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  16. @Alice,
    I will show you how I order as I post further stuff in the future. Hehehe.
    What makes you think I'm a Japanese?
    Thanks for the kind wishes. I do love my time in Keelung and definitely miss them a lot.

    @Edi,
    Cheers bro! I thought I needed to spark up my posts, other than posting same thing after another.

    @Jacqueline,
    The library was a definite highlight for me too!
    Don't worry about the stomach upset thing, it's a norm for an Indonesian food experience. Thank you for the sweet wishes!

    @Lyn,
    I borrowed the glasses from someone I met ;P Hehehe. Really? The have food restriction like that in Singapore?!? That's a real shame. I do have to say though, Indonesian crab are better than the Singaporean (maybe hygiene was the reason??)

    @Kim,
    You are spoiling me with such sweet words Kim! I am so glad that you really enjoy my thoughts!

    @Thuy,
    Thanks Thuy, I had a great trip. Come over to Keelung if you love seafood, it's a great treat!

    @Katherine,
    Ouuuu... I would love to know how to make the oyster omelette. But they're pretty expensive in NZ :( Thank you!

    @Maya,
    Wooouuu... I wish I'd have met a similar person in Taiwan because I'd really love to visit HK too.
    I don't think tour guide is a calling for me, 100% sure on that matter. Cheers!

    @Arthur,
    I love that word 'pseudoauthentic'! Perfect description of many food courts all over the world.
    And yup, back alley is the best bet, unfortunately I don't speak the lingo...
    Why ban bubble tea?
    Cleanliness and deliciousness don't mix well in most Asian centre of pleasure.

    @Susan,
    Thank you. You should be able to get bubble tea where you are from. Just hit a little trip to the Chinese area. It's a sweet treat for a young at heart.

    @Pei Li,
    You do love all things the same to mine and mine to yours too! Amazing huh? How some beings are lined in tastes, even in separation of time and place?

    @Michael,
    Twilight fans would love a little Edward Cullen aroma, I reckon.
    NZ in that shop doesn't smell like NZ, it's an aroma I can't put words in to. When you arrive repetitively in NZ, you get to know what your senses miss.
    So you're a height-phobic huh?

    @Apex,
    No, not a fan.
    I don't actually know what's a Japanese style for men. I guess I'm more of a Japanese because I look more manly than a stereotypical Korean feminime men.

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  17. Oh, that's very kind of 'someone'! Hahaha ;P
    Yeah, don't you know that we're well-known for our 2 big Ks!?!? Kiasi and Kiasu (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kiasi)
    Even all food stalls are rated A,B,C according their hygiene and cleanliness. -_-"

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  18. oh jian (oyster omelette)! it's so hard to get good ones in malaysia nowwwww

    hey, i'm following your blog but your feed doesn't show up on my reader! :(

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  19. @Lyn,
    Big Ks sound familiar but not dinging any light in head at the moment. It's quite impressive that foodstalls have ABC rating, that's so Singaporeans. Hahaha ;P

    @Michelle,
    Not sure why it doesn't feed in to your reader. Sometimes some blog just don't click well with another reader.

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